The Journey to the Underground Natural Wonder in Palawan

The Subterranean River National Park is a natural underground wonder in the island of Palawan, Philippines. We heard so much about it that we decided to see it for ourselves. It did not disappoint us. It was captivating to see its natural beauty, the fascinating rock formations, and the mysterious internal environment brought about by its resident bat colony. Over time, it was the turquoise-colored water that was creating a cave system from the surrounding mountainous limestones. Eventually, nature found a way for a bat colony to thrive and call the subterranean river their home.

Our travel story to this UNESCO World Heritage site began in a bustling hub in Palawan. Puerto Princesa City is a gateway to this island’s ecological and natural marvels. It was in this city that we found ourselves emerging from our restless slumber. Jet lag was slowly creeping in after the long haul flight from Istanbul. Nevertheless, we were up and ready for our travel story to the subterranean river.

The road trip is always part of the adventure

The approximately two-hour ride north was an adventure in itself. The winding route was taking us through landscapes lush with green color and charming rural communities. Sari-sari stores were perfect places for pit stops. The stores were very convenient places to stretch, use the toilet, and maybe have some nourishment. We were seeing a lot of tourist-looking travelers in this particular patch of road.

One was a lady with a south London accent. She was standing in one corner of the sari sari store with an ice cream bar in hand. We engaged her in conversation and found out that she was trying to pay for her goody. She was just hesitant to interrupt a never-ending conversation of the store owner with another customer! She works for BBC and her crew was doing a documentary segment about a beach resort in San Isidro, Palawan. There were many more other tourists who were actually on vacation.

We were delayed by a storm at the registration center

The final stretch before getting to the Subterranean River National Park was a required stop at the park’s registration center. Management was efficient with registration and getting us ready for a short but exhilarating boat ride across a calm bay. Unfortunately, it was all but calm. A fast moving storm front was heading in our direction. It was whipping up enough squalls that all the motorized bangka had to be anchored in deeper water. It didn’t last very long. While waiting, we were treated to a delightful lunch buffet of Filipino delicacies at a nearby restaurant. It made us temporarily forget the inconvenience of waiting out a storm. Soon, we were on board a motorized bangka and heading for the subterranean river.

The park management was pretty much thorough in doing their job. A well-organized system for visitor registration and briefing ensures the preservation of this delicate ecosystem. The guides were meticulously explaining the park’s rules. They were emphasizing environmental responsibility and adherence to designated pathways. The guidelines were strict yet was a necessary control in maintaining the park’s pristine condition. This allowed visitors to experience its raw beauty without compromising its integrity for future generations.

The highlight

We landed on shore farther north of the island. The entrance to the subterranean river was hiding inside a small cove. This was the highlight! Experienced local guides were paddling us in canoes into the inner chambers of the underground river. The transition from the bright tropical sun to the cool, echoing darkness was dramatic. The canoes were gliding silently. Silence was crucial! The inner chambers is also home to a big colony of bats. We were listening to an audio recording with headphones about the history and ecological importance of the underground river. The audio recording was also describing the various rock formations as it was being illuminated by our guides. The air inside the cave was surprisingly fresh. The only sounds were the gentle lapping of water against the canoes and the occasional chirping of bats high above.

The river flow is known to be around eight kilometers long before emptying to the sea. However, we can only go so far – around two kilometers. We backtracked our way back to the mouth of the cave. It was inspiring!. Nature carved out a natural beauty that we were fortunate enough to witness.

Thanks for reading this post! It was a challenge to take photographs in this environment. We hope that the posted photographs are good enough to give you a visual perception of the adventure to the Subterranean River. There are other photographs that can be viewed and printed here and here.

Have a wonderful day!